WEDNESDAY 02/06
Set off from the B+B and headed North towards the border to sort out the phone problems. On the way I noticed that while Ireland has few motorways, the N roads are pretty fast as they are often built in a straight line.

I stopped for a couple of hours at one of Ireland's most important historical sites - Newgrange. This is a giant megalithic site composed of a group of large burial mounds made of various types of stone. Each has a passageway that leads inside to a chamber where the cremated remains of important people were interred. The most important thing about Newgrange though is the Winter Solstice when for 15 minutes on 21st December each year the sun rises at the exact angle required to shine down the small window at the top of the passage and illuminates the inside with a beam of light that makes it look golden inside due to the colour of stone used on the walls and ceiling.

If you are thinking of booking in advance to see the spectacle for real (as opposed to the electric light simulation they put on) you're out of luck as it's booked until 2006 and they aren't taking any more bookings. You may also be disappointed if it's cloudy at the precise moment the event occurs...

The ceiling was made free-standing (like an igloo) and supports another 3m or rock (0.25 million tons in all) above it without any cement or mortar of any kind. It's also completely waterproof - not bad for 5000 years old. The most incredible thing about it all is that the Neolithic population brought the stone there by hand  from all over Ireland. Some of the kerb stones around the outside base weigh up to 100 tons each…

The rain poured down relentlessly and matters were not helped by everyone I met saying that it was fine and sunny on Monday.

The exchange rate is very good at the moment at £1.00 = IR£1.18 so things are cheap. Petrol is dirt cheap at 56p/litre. B+B places are cheap at about £15 and plentiful enough to make sleeping in the car not worth while unless the weather improves and there are good pictures to be had in the morning.

I zoomed over the mountains towards Newry to get into Vodafone range to have a go at them for cocking up the international roaming. After sorting that out I headed across country, winding up in Carrigallen. It is interesting to note that the guy who gave me directions from Newtown Gore said that this village was "handy". How going 4.5 miles out of my way could be described as handy I don't know but I'm glad I came here because of the density of pubs within 5mins of the B+B. The locals were straight out of the text book and I have Scott's request plus something special from the high street - an auctioneer / valuer / bar / funeral directors. Truly the ultimate 'one-stop-shop'.